Good question! There are two times in which you might get your cannabis wet: 1. Water Curing 2. When you drop it The good news is; it doent't matter!. Water curing is a highly effective method for removing residual last part of the growing process, but drying and curing weed is paramount to. It's a brave new weed world, especially here in Oregon, which has taken to legalization like a duck to water. And speaking of water, a Seattle.
in the Water Weed
Some are made for soil and we do not recommend you use these in your hydroponic garden. Most hydroponic nutrient solutions available on the market today are complete nutrient solutions. They provide every element required for optimal plant growth.
When planning your hydroponic setup financially make sure you DO NOT go cheap on the nutrients, as taking any short-cuts here will greatly undermine your ideal growth goals.
Wet nutrients are very trendy and hip in the hydroponic world. But, wet nutrients generally tend to be more expensive. This is because the bottle contains more water and less actual nutrient content.
This makes them more expensive to ship and transport. When it comes time to mix them and feed your plant either dry or wet works equally well. Whether using liquid or dry hydroponic nutrients, you should only add to the water after filling the container rather than adding nutrients and then filling. Adding before filling can lead to severe nutrient imbalances. Mix your solution in the sink.
Get a watering can and clean it. Let your water run directly into it and while water is flowing into the can then pour in your nutrients. This will keep your nutrients from locking up. Rumor has it that when you mix your nutrients inside a cup they will lock up. This is very bad! Now just carry your watering can over to your reservoir and pour it in. Single packs are not ideal. This is because having all the nutrients in a single pack runs the risk of having the elements in the pack combine and precipitate.
When precipitation occurs this causes your solution to become unbalanced. This will render your solution not only completely useless to your plants but most likely toxic and harmful as well. The chemicals are held in different packs to entirely prevent precipitation. Check the specific instructions on the bottles for an explanation how to mix the nutrients into water. When growing in an organic garden, make sure to buy nutrients that are hydroorganics, for organic hydroponic growing only.
Many growers wonder what a sample quality hydroponic nutrient solution would look like when mixed together. Using popular products today I have included some samples to give you an idea:. This mixture ensures your plants are getting all major and minor nutrients in solution, and will also be treating your plants with oxygen for good root growth, and potassium nitrate for good burning qualities.
Fish emulsion is great in a greenhouse or outdoors, where smells are not an issue — it is not recommended indoors due to its pungent odor. Here is another quality hydroponic nutrient solution example, as well as how exactly one would apply it.
This should give you a general overview of how to correctly mix and apply nutrients. Continue to use this nutrient solution without dumping the tank unless the PPM rises above acceptable levels. Between vegetative and flowering cycles you should dump your nutrients, then flush perhaps with a commercially available clearing solution to remove salt buildups, then change to the other feeding program.
Always shake your nutrient bottles before using them! The Lucas formula eliminates the need for Epsom salts to correct Magnesium Mg deficiencies in most normal feeding programs recommended by manufacturers.
Cannabis will need a lot of Magnesium to thrive and flourish. As you can see, The Flora Micro is providing the Nitrogen and the Magnesium in the proper balance, thus there is no need for the Grow formula and little or no room under the maximum acceptable ppm limit of 0.
Many newer growers have concerns that the water is not flowing rapidly or strongly from the ends of the tubes into the rock wool cubes. A strong flow is not necessary at all. A slight trickle bubbling is all that is needed to keep the rock wool cube moist and the baby roots fed until they reach into the deep water.
You do need to check for crimps and folds in the water tubes, especially when you first set up your system. The water must be clean. Hydroponic plants must be grown in a sterile medium. The easiest way to make sure your grow medium stays sterile is to change water on a regular basis and check the pH each and every time you add nutrients. It is important to check your water. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc for the tap water in your area.
Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. The best waters to use with your hydroponic garden are spring, distilled or reverse osmosis filtered water. If you can get access to these many issues that plague growers can be bypassed. However, most household water is also fine to use. If you have city supplied water you can use it directly from your faucets inside your home or apartment.
Or, if your house has a well and softener system, you will want to take your water from a faucet that supplies water straight from the well; i. Softener systems add salts to the water that are harmful to plants. Note that well water can potentially cause mineral build up and blockages, so regular cleaning is required. The faucets in your yard generally supply un-softened water; and there should also be one right next to your softener system that also supplies water that has not been through the system yet.
If you have a Reverse Osmosis System, you should use the RO filtered water as it is close to the quality of spring and distilled water.
If you will not be able to tend to the garden every day, be sure the pans are filled enough to last until next time you return, or you can easily lose your precious crop. It is necessary to change the solution every month if your circulating it with a pump, but the reservoir system does away with this problem. Just rinse the medium once a month or so to prevent salts build up. This can be accomplished by watering from the top of the pot or rockwool cube with some pure water as mentioned above.
Algae is one of the problems you will encounter if you do not take the following steps to prevent it. Algae will grow anywhere there is nutrient solution and light. Many newbie growers allow algae to grow in their tank, and this is a big problem!
Algae appears in your tank following several mistakes but have no worries; as it can be remedied pretty easily. First off you must never allow a dead root or fallen leaf to stay inside the tank and decay. Also do not allow the lights to shine into the water through the rocks. If the grow cup is full of rocks, the lights can not penetrate through the cups. And most important, you have to start with clean, pure water.
You can not use rain water, or water from a stream, river or lake. You should exchange the water after the first ten days, and then every 10 to 14 days as you grow.
As the plants get over 12 inches tall, exchanging the water every 7 days is more efficient. Your water should smell like clean green alfalfa sprouts. If you detect an unpleasant odor, you have waited way too long to drain and exchange the water. When you do replenish the water and nutrients, you should look for and remove any dead roots that were accidentally torn from the plant. You can use RO filtered water, or store bought distilled or spring water.
Be sure to never ever use more than a level teaspoon per tank of 6 gallons of water! Green Algae Slime on Rockwool: Algae needs light and nutrients to live, it will spread to your reservoir and will block feed lines.
To prevent this from happening, use light-proof and water-proof material to cover your rockwool. Algae will tend to grow on the medium with higher humidifies in hydroponic systems. It will quickly turn a slab of rockwool a nasty dark green. To prevent this, use the plastic cover the rockwool came in to cover rockwool slab tops, with holes cut for the plants to stick out of it.
You now have two pieces of slab, each covered with plastic except on the very ends. Now your ready to treat the rockwool as described above in anticipation of planting. If growing in pots, a layer of gravel at the top of a pot may help reduce algae growth, since it will dry very quickly. Algae is merely messy and unsightly; it will not actually cause any complications with the plants.
These nutrients are natural elements, so they do not perfectly dissolve in water. For example, seashells are not ever going to completely dissolve in water, no matter how much they are pulverized, but are an excellent source of calcium.
You should add the packets to a quart jar half full of warm water and stir them rapidly, mixing them as well as possible in the water. Then pour them through a tea strainer or some kind of mesh screen or filter, to filter out the small particles that did not dissolve.
Then add the nutrient water mix to the tank. If you started with clones or baby plants, then start with half a packet of grow nutrients. Your plants should be about 3 inches tall before you use the nutrients full strength. Then stand back and watch for a growth explosion! Mixing a hydroponic nutrient solution is as easy as following a recipe in the kitchen, but the first couple times you do it you are going to have to be VERY careful to make sure you have go the right proportions.
Be careful of using full, and even medium strength nutrient solutions, as they can burn your plants! One of the most common problems reported with hydroponics is plant burns. Be sure to consult the information printed on the packs. Over feeding is a very common, not to worry though as time goes on you will get to know your strain and what it likes and eventually be a master of controlling your nutrient amounts.
Generally speaking though, you will use a half strength solution for your young plants for the first two weeks, after that it is going to be full strength. Always read the directions before you mess with them!!!! For the vegetative growth period try a N: K ratio of about Check the pH after adding nutrients.
If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows: These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Maintaining your hydroponic garden is what makes the difference between okay weed and the greats. Take your time with this section. If you want your buds to grow out to their fullest potential than you will need to maintain your reservoir right.
The most influential factors are nutrient levels and pH, as discussed in their appropriate sections. The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5. Tap water is often too acidic. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get overly acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy.
For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Just like with soil, you must adjust your pH level, but this time the methods used to raise and lower the pH is much different. The pH level will affect the solubility of your nutrients.
An easy way to measure your pH is to use pH paper. You can pick this up cheap at any garden or grow shop, but remember, it may not be as accurate as a well invested meter. Never ever mix pH up and pH down together directly in a concentrate. This stuff is very dangerous and needs to be handled with care. Use one pipette for each job and color code the pipette to the bottle. A pH level of 6. The method is simple. When you first set up your tank, you should do a pH test on your water before adding the water to the tank.
That way, the pH perfect nutrients will work best. It can be dangerous to adjust the pH in the tank, especially if you overly adjust it. It is also dangerous to adjust it frequently. Let us repeat, you should add the nutrients to PH perfect water to start with. Plants do not adjust well to rapid changes in PH levels.
Be sure to check your pH level as much as you possibly can. Unlike when growing in soil, with Hydroponics systems the pH level can tend to fluctuate very rapidly. You will get a feel for it. In a normal hydroponic system keep the pH between 5. The pH of the nutrient solution is a major determinant of nutrient uptake by the plant. If the pH wanders outside the optimum range of between pH 5.
For hydroponic nutrient solutions used with inert media, keep the pH at 5. It is at this point that roots most readily assimilate nutrients. Edward Muckle and Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses. They both document the low pH resulting in increased nutrient uptake and discernible health and yield improvements at a ph of 5. The widely accepted soil based pH chart growers base their hydroponic pH ranges on is frequently misapplied to water culture applications.
His research and that done by others, documented in Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses, indicate that iron and phosphorous precipitate in nutrient solutions at pH levels above 6. Stay below a pH of 6 by all means to avoid this problem and watch your plants benefit.
At this point, most elements are assimilated highest and atmospheric oxygen is most readily dissolved. If you can keep the roots warmer the plant will be able to handle cooler temperatures than it otherwise could. If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants.
This part can get tricky. As you have learned by now, depending on which hydroponic setup you are using, your nutrient solution goes through a system that recycles and reuses the nutrients in the reservoir over and over.
Remember, the pH of your water should always be around 5. Reservoir maintenance is the routine task of keeping the hydroponic nutrient solution in the reservoir from becoming too strong or toxic as the water is being evaporated and the nutrients within the solution are taken up by the plants.
Simply put; Top off daily with half half the strength of your current new reservoir starting strength strength nutrients, alternating days topping up with plain water. Change the entire reservoir with fresh solution every ten days to two weeks.
One problem in hydroponics solution maintenance is that as water is being taken up by the plants as well as evaporating out of the solution , the concentration of nutrient salts in the solution becomes gradually stronger, sometimes to the point of certain elements becoming toxic to the plants. The TDS will always become stronger as water is taken away from the solution.
Another common problem is that hydroponically grown plants will take up what they need as they need it from the nutrient solution. This means a nutrient solution left alone will end up lacking key nutrients, with a build-up of toxic levels of other key nutrients.
The only way around these problems for the average hydroponic grower is to practice sound reservoir topping off procedures. The most widely accepted maintenance method involves daily topping off and routine reservoir solution replacement.
An example of this would be topping off the reservoir daily with a nutrient solution which is half of the current new reservoir strength , alternating days by topping off with plain water and finally; changing the entire reservoir solution at least every two weeks.
Changing the reservoir solution every two weeks will give the plants a fresh and well balanced nutrient mix which has not been altered by the plants nutrient uptake. Plants will take up excessive levels of some nutrients, leaving the solution lacking in certain key nutrients. Plants grown hydroponically can harm themselves with nutrient deficiencies, lockouts and overdoses, if allowed to continue feeding without some control over whats available in the reservoir. A TDS meter will allow you to see how much of your nutrients have been used up and how much more you need to adjust in order to reach your optimal nutrient level.
There is no way around it, over time your reservoirs will become depleted and will need replenishing. The more dissolved solids you put in the water, the better it conducts electricity. A PPM or EC reader is extremely accurate and recommended for this purpose, but it is quite expensive. Over time it balances out though because you will save lots and lots of money on the cost of hydroponics nutrients and burned plants.
Burned plants, commonly referred to as a chemical burn, is what the plant suffers from due to over-feeding. As water evaporates and is absorbed by the plants, your water reservoir level will drop. Every 2 weeks you need to change the nutrient solution.
Be sure to clean out the reservoir and discard the old solution. Then add tap water that has been aged 3 days or longer to the reservoir then add your nutrient solution. As soon as the roots are submerged, the pump can shut down.
If it takes longer than X minutes for the roots to get water, the roots will tend to grow long, They usually grow very long because they are looking for the nutrient solution source. In fact, if this happens they can grow so long and thick that they prevent the solution from reaching all the way up your grow medium.
This will also raise the chance of root material being ripped out and clogging the system. Once the flow is clogged by root or any other kind of material inside, you will have to take the garden apart and clean it.
If it is hard to remove the grow medium the plants are in because the roots are anchored to the internal channel, the roots are too long. The root should be short enough to not touch the narrow point where the solution enters the cup holder.
If they are too long, trim them down with scissors. If you need to trim the roots, it has been reported that trimming the roots 6 inches down will not hurt the plant. There are several ways to drain your tank. One is by adding the drain plug or faucet. Or you can obtain a plastic hose like you can get at the aquarium store to drain your aquarium, and siphon the water out.
Another way is to attach the hose to the submersible pump, using your fist as a coupling, and simply allow the pump to pump it out into a bucket. Since the plant will not absorb nutrients in the same proportions you are adding them imbalances will result over time.
To correct this you will periodically need to drain and fill your reservoir with fresh nutrient solution. To begin with do this at least once a month and just before you start flowering. During flowering change the reservoir every two weeks.
How often you actually need to do this depends on the plants, the nutrients, the size of the reservoir, etc. Luckily the plants will let you know how often you need to do this.
Especially with clones you will be able to get reservoir changes down to a system of clockwork since the clones will generally all have the same nutrient preferences. About every month, replace the water nutrient solution. Every other time you change the water, rinse the medium with clear water to wash away any salts that have been left before adding a new nutrient water solution.
Maintaining a highly aerated root zone at optimum temperature is key to achieving high potent yields and problem-free grows. These systems are subject to rapid heating by intense HID lighting which increases root zone temperatures, which decreases Dissolved Oxygen DO levels. Rapid plant growth combined with low DO levels can cause oxygen deprivation which in turn can result in infection by opportunistic pathogens such as pythium root rot.
The reservoir should be kept slightly cooler than the rootzone — irrigation and system heating will warm the water by the time it reaches the roots. Warm summer temperatures often require aggressive cooling measures. Bubblers and DWC systems are difficult systems to temperature regulate due to their usually small volumes and lack of external reservoir.
Make sure and spray, drip, mist, or circulate nutrients on a frequent basis to equalize reservoir and root zone temperatures. Submersible pumps add heat. High quality digital thermometers are recommended. This cannot be stressed enough! Keeping cloning, vegetative and flowering systems clean gives your plants a fighting chance against pythium root rot and other harmful diseases, ensuring healthy, vigorous, potent crops.
Failure to periodically clean a system can result in stressed plants becoming infected and rapidly spreading disease throughout the entire system. Once infected, the entire crop will experience reduced vigor and yield, and possibly die. Prevention is the best cure for disease. Sterilization between crops, adding antipathogen additives, and attention to system design can help combat disease. Wear gloves when handling concentrated peroxide.
Do not use bleach. Strong h2o2 will not burn off slime and salt buildup by itself. Remove all plant matter from system. If infection was present, replace any grow medium; soak gro-rocks in strong h2o2. Remove and replace all irrigation. Biologically-resistant poly tubing is can be cleaned and re-used. Soak all accessories in strong h2o2 misters too, if possible. And because the THC and CBD is evenly distributed throughout the water, everyone will feel the same high; as opposed to say, splitting a cookie, which might leave one person really high and the other hardly at all.
Lander says that last year, Seattle-based dominatrix, Savage Lovecast regular, and educator Mistress Matisse approached the company to see if they could make a genital THC topical that could deliver longer and more powerful orgasms. While the oil-based THC topicals worked, she told them, they were, well, smelly, oily, and messy. And, according to Lander, men can use the product too, but their mileage may vary.
Matisse is not the only celebrity to partner with Tarukino. Criminal for a line of Crime Family dab pens, which can be loaded with concentrates for a quick high, and the company is reaching out to the community by incubating aspiring cannabis startups at the Ruckus Room, an AV-decked-out warehouse space in downtown Seattle. Look for Tarukino products in Oregon as they find their way onto the shelves of your local weed dispensary sometime this summer. Loosely fit the lid and leave it in a safe, cool area, about 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Change the water every 12 hours and replace it with fresh water. Do this for 5 to 7 days. When you are done, drain the water from the container and put your weed laid out on an oven tray. Put it in the oven at Fahrenheit for a couple of hours or until it dries. If all of this is done correctly, the result will be a smooth, mild smoke with none of the character, harshness or intense aroma.
Water curing offers an alternative to air curing, which involves letting the pot dry out in the air for a couple of weeks. Air curing gives bag appeal and a strong taste where water cured weed is mild and smooth. Chlorophyll is not actually water soluble. Notify me of follow-up comments by email.
Water Curing Weed and Why It’s So Controversial
It's a cannabis mineral water you can do almost anything to. restaurants will be serving desserts infused with weed alongside a cognac. Of course, drinking enough water is important for your overall health, whether you 're smoking weed or not. But you definitely don't want to make. With strong weed no longer hard to find, home growing is a chance for cannabis may attract investment into lighting, water management and.